A Kenyan Immersion: Exotic Animals, Indian food, Masai High Jumps and beautiful beaches !
- Mukund Seetharaman
- Jun 25, 2023
- 17 min read
Updated: Jun 26, 2023
Day 1 - Nairobi: A Beautiful Collision of Chaos and Color
After many months of planning, we, a merry band of two families, packed and pumped with all necessary vaccinations and medical precautions, decided to embark on a Kenyan adventure.
Our journey kicked off with a quick pit stop in Addis Ababa, the vibrant heart of Ethiopia, before we touched down in Nairobi at 2:30 pm. You know you're in for a treat when your first impression of a city is the inside of an airport that could double as a cultural melting pot.
We reached our hotel by 4 pm, bleary-eyed but buoyed by the hum of adrenaline in our veins. The hotel, conveniently placed opposite the 100-year-old Bank of India building, reminded us of our Indian roots as well as a refreshing dash of Mexico. It's strange how thousands of miles away from home, you can find familiarity in the oddest places. Our abode, hotel Sarova Stanley was founded in 1902 and had an old-world charm with modern amenities. The hotel incidentally was the location of the first stock exchange in Kenya and has hosted many world leaders including Churchill. It was also the location where the famous Tusker beer was found ! The name "Sarova" comes from the letters of the first syllables of the wives’ names of the 3 founders of Sarova group.
First order of the tour was a briefing by Naomi, our tour organizer. With the precision of a Swiss watch and the eloquence of a seasoned news reader, she briefed us about our impending adventures. I forgot the details after day 3.
The streets of Nairobi echo with an energy, akin to the hustle and bustle of India, with a side serving of Mexico's chaotic charm. To our delight, we found a slice of India in the numerous businesses dotting the cityscape.
As night fell, we found ourselves huddled in a cosy Thai restaurant tucked within our hotel. The Pad Thai, Papaya salad and Tempura was only made better by the warm company and the thrill of anticipation for the adventures to come.
In summary, day one in Nairobi was a colorful blur of novel experiences, interspersed with surprising hints of familiarity. With the anticipation of adventure fueling our spirits, we wrapped up our first day on a high note, excitedly awaiting the thrill that tomorrow holds.
Day 2 - From Nairobi's Buzz to Ol Pejeta's Bliss
Rising with the sun, we set out from Nairobi at 7:30 am, ready to embrace the excitement that lay ahead. The day started with a warm introduction to Francis, our trusted driver and guide, who would be our companion for the rest of this journey. Brimming with optimism and a breakfast worthy of kings, we were ready to hit the road. The breakfast had so many Indian food items, which we would discover as common throughout our trip, to our delight.
The drive to Ol Pejeta was an interesting 210km journey, mostly smooth, punctuated by familiar Indian-style speed breakers as we passed villages and towns. We couldn't help but marvel at the lush green landscapes that bore an uncanny resemblance to the emerald beauty of Kerala, India's own 'God's Own Country'.
The mid-journey break at a quaint little coffee shop was a much-welcomed pause. The 'not-so-short' walk through an artifact shop to the restrooms was like a mini cultural tour in itself. A quick photo stop at the Equator - a line that's unseen but oh-so-significant - provided us with proof of our geographic adventures.
Our destination, Ol Pejeta, greeted us with its vast expanse of 350 square kilometers. It's a private conservancy that promised to immerse us in the raw beauty of African wildlife. Our residence for the day, Sweet Waters Tented Camp, an exquisite property under the stewardship of the Aga Khan Foundation, stood proud amidst this wilderness.
These 'tents' were far from typical – spacious enough to comfortably house 6-8 people, and luxuriously equipped. The path to the tents wound its way through a mini forest, the sunlight filtering through the branches, painting a magical picture.
What struck us most were the striking blue Superb Starling birds, living up to their name with their vibrant plumage and energetic dances. The camp offered a front-row seat to view rhinos and wild bucks and a waterhole frequented by a range of wildlife.
Can you imagine spotting a Rhino before your tent ?
Our lunch was a delightful affair under the careful supervision of Ann, our hostess. The buffet was more than adequate, including spicy pasta and cream of vegetable soup, and served with a side of breathtaking animal views.
The afternoon was dedicated to visiting a chimpanzee sanctuary and later meeting Baraka, a blind rhino.
Our guide Solomon (along with 3 others) cajoled the bored Baraka from inside the mini forest to the viewing area and we got up close and personal with this majestic beast, feeding and petting him under the watchful eyes of our guide. Baraka seemed docile enough and ate all the weeds happily, smiling for photos.
A somber visit to the Rhino cemetery was a poignant reminder of the delicate balance of life in the wild. As evening fell, we embarked on a game drive where we encountered elephants and zebras in their natural habitat.
The day concluded with a beautiful sunset viewed from our verandah. A curious wild buck engaged us in an impromptu staring contest, and we watched in silent awe as a procession of animals made their way to the waterhole for an evening drink.
As we retreated to our luxurious tents for the night, the symphony of animal sounds served as our lullaby. It was a little chilly, but the thrill of the day kept us warm.
To sum it up, day two of our journey offered a thrilling transition from the bustling city life of Nairobi to the serene, untouched beauty of Ol Pejeta. The day was filled with unique experiences, tantalizing meals, and memorable interactions with the vibrant wildlife that calls Ol Pejeta home.
Day 3 - From Ol Pejeta to Lake Nakuru: A Journey of Giraffes, Zebras, and Tree-climbing Lions
With the morning dew glistening on the grass and the sky ablaze with the colors of sunrise, day three of our African adventure kicked off. The night was cold, but I am sure the adrenaline kept us warm in the morning ! Our bellies filled with a breakfast buffet (and their stock of green chillies diminishing substantially), we hopped into our 4x4 Nissan 8-seater, a vehicular Swiss Army knife, equipped with a roof that could be raised for better wildlife viewing.
Francis, our trusty driver, was our knight in a rugged Nissan on the long drive to Lake Nakuru. The ride was smooth on the single carriageway, and the picturesque Rift Valley offered an irresistible photo stop.
As we neared Sopa Lodge, our accommodation in Nakuru, we were greeted by a downpour worthy of Kerala's monsoon. Luckily, the Lodge seemed prepared for such weather. The place was a collection of cottages nestled on the slopes of the hilly terrain, each having a magnificent view of the Lake.
After lunch and a brief rest to shake off the journey and the rain, we ventured out for a game drive. The rain had cooled the air and settled the dust, turning the safari into a refreshing adventure. The terrain was a bit tricky at times with steep and slippery descents, but Francis and our 4x4 seemed to take it all in stride with a smile.
The animal sightings of the day included a tower of 22 endangered Rothschild giraffes (I had to Google the collective noun), and what seemed like a Zebra United Nations gathering. The landscape was quite a contrast from Ol Pejeta, highlighting the diverse beauty of this continent.
But the crown jewel was the encounter with the flamingos at the lake, their pink hue painting the calm water like an impressionist masterpiece. Most were snoozing off, leaving us in envy of their serene late afternoon nap.
Just when we thought the day couldn't get any better, a tip-off from another driver led us to an even more astonishing sight. A lioness and her cub were gracefully perched on a tree, the little one trying its best to emulate its mother. Then, in a plot twist straight out of a Disney movie, three more adorable cubs appeared and sauntered right past our jeep. It was a rare and beautiful family reunion we were lucky to witness (and get on camera!).
With hearts full and SD cards fuller, we returned to the lodge for a delicious dinner. The menu was starting to look like Groundhog Day with a second round of spicy pasta and vegetable soup. Topped off with a fresh salad and decadent chocolate ice cream, it was a satisfying end to an unforgettable day.
Day three in summary: A breathtaking sunrise, a buffet fit for kings, thrilling animal encounters, pasta déjà vu, and an unexpected peek into a lion family reunion made this an adventurous day filled with surprises and awe-inspiring moments.
Day 4 - From Lake Nakuru to Lake Naivasha and onto Masai Mara: Wary of Hippos and Honest Cops (?)
The crack of dawn painted the lake in hues of red and oranges, and with that breathtaking view, we kickstarted day four of our African journey.
We arrived at Lake Naivasha around 10 am. The weather was perfect: sunny with a cool breeze, like Mother Nature had her own air conditioning system. We hopped onto a boat, all ready for a peaceful ride, only to be told by our local guide that swimming was a strict no-no because of our hippopotamus friends who apparently liked to freestyle in the deep waters.
A contented Hippo peeking from the waters.
Lake Naivasha was an impressive 160 square kilometer body of water, with depths reaching up to 27 meters. The impressive volcano Mt.Longonot towered a bit far away.
On the island, we met our guide Diwan (apparently he googled names from India), an Amboseli native, who helped us spot gazelles and wildebeests. The close encounters with giraffes and zebras were quite the experience, and the ensuing photo session was a dream come true for our camera lenses.
Diwan showed us a spot where a python had swallowed a gazelle whole a few days ago. He also warned us about hippos, which apparently have a short temper and a dislike for paparazzi.
While returning, we caught the sight of an eagle swooping in and catching a fish - truly a 'bird's eye view' moment!
Our bellies led us to Matteo's, an Italian restaurant for lunch, where we indulged in pasta and pizzas. Accompanied by the local beer Tusker and some good rose wine, it was la dolce vita in the heart of Africa.
The drive to Masai Mara was less sweet when the local police tried to play "Who Wants To Be A Millionaire" with us, only the lifeline was a bribe! Francis, our driver-slash-hero, navigated the situation with the finesse of a seasoned diplomat, diffusing the situation with polite refusals.
The long journey was tiring, and some of us dozed off, only to be startled awake by the sight of a majestic male lion casually crossing the road just minutes after entering the national park. Unfortunately, his highness was in a hurry did not stop for any photo ops.
Our stay for the night was at the Masai Mara Simba Lodge, strategically located near a river teeming with hippos and crocodiles. The lodge seemed to be quite popular among Indian tourists, so we got to taste some comforting home-style Indian food, including Kadi Khichdi.
In summary, day four was a blend of stunning wildlife encounters, delicious food, and a small brush with local law enforcement. The journey from Lake Nakuru to Lake Naivasha and finally Masai Mara painted a diverse landscape and delivered unexpected experiences – from up-close encounters with majestic beasts to sipping local beer (Tusker) in an Italian restaurant. And let's not forget the charmingly corrupt cops - always a memorable holiday anecdote!
Day 5 - Full Day in Masai Mara: Dosas, Wildlife Galore, and Picnics by the River
We awoke to the delightful surprise of a dosa counter at breakfast. A special order for egg dosa had us reminiscing about south indian specialities. After our Masai-Indian breakfast, we headed out for a full-day game drive through the stunning 1,500 square kilometer park, adjacent to the Serengeti in Tanzania.
Masai Mara and Serengeti share the fascinating phenomenon of the annual migration of wildlife, which happens in July. The beautiful landscape of vast Savannah's, dotted by lone trees, was still a sight to behold. Rohan aptly compared it to a Windows home screen. We also had to share this vista with dozens of safari jeeps filled with camera-wielding tourists sporting huge telephoto lenses.
Thanks to a low-tech transmitter system, the drivers could give updates on animal sightings to each other. And spot we did! We saw a host of animals (a full list enclosed below), including a partially hidden leopard and two sleek cheetahs who decided to take their morning stroll right across our path.
Another highlight was when we came upon a pride of lions feasting on their morning kill. A male lion, four lionesses, and 11 cubs - an African nuclear family enjoying a communal breakfast. To our surprise, this pride was joined by an older male lion, who Francis explained was too old to hunt and was thus mooching off the others.
After many photos and enough lion drama, we left to find a picnic spot. Francis led us to the banks of the Mara river, famous for the migration spectacle. There, we saw hippos and Nile crocodiles peacefully cohabiting - who knew they were buddies? The crocs were in anticipation of the migration of the wildebeest in a few days for a feast !
Under a lone tree with a panoramic view of the savannah, we enjoyed a picnic lunch packed by our hotel, with a solitary, gigantic bird for company.
Before returning to the lodge, we witnessed a couple of playful hyenas frolicking in the tall grass and even crossed a few feet into Serengeti territory for a quick illegal photo op at the Tanzanian border. We also spotted a cute little fox on the way back.
Back at the lodge, I met 'Ken', a local Masai, whom we later discovered was the local performer. After a quick power nap, we spent the evening at the lodge bar, watching hippos take their evening bath in the river.
Dinner that night was Chole Bhatura - another Indian delicacy in the heart of Africa. But the night was far from over. The Maasai men, Ken leading the pack, entertained us with their traditional song and dance. And despite a tempting $1000 offer, Rohan decided against a jump-off with the Masai men. He said his pride is worth more !
To sum up, day five in Masai Mara was a flurry of wildlife sightings, picnic in the middle of the conservancy and a hearty dose of local culture. Who knew a day in the African savannah could feel like a whirlwind tour through a nature documentary, a gourmet food show, and a reality TV show all at once! Just goes to show, the wild has more to offer than just wildlife.
Day 6 - Masai Mara to Nairobi: From Game Drives to Market Haggling
Our sixth day in Africa started with an early morning wakeup call. We left for a 6 am game drive in Masai Mara, hoping to witness some hunting by predators. As we set out, we saw a hot air balloon taking off against the backdrop of a stunning sunrise.
An interesting sight was a leopard's breakfast - an impala - nestled on top of a tree. While the leopard was elusive, a hopeful hyena lurked below the tree, probably hoping gravity would serve him a hearty breakfast. Apart from the missing leopard and wishful hyena, we caught glimpses of elephants, giraffes, and zebras.
By 8:20 am, we were back at the lodge. Before leaving for Nairobi, we visited the Masai women selling their wares just outside the lodge. I must admit, it was hard to resist the colorful trinkets and handmade crafts.
We left for Nairobi around 10 am, and our journey was interrupted for the third time by the police. Luckily, this one was a friend of Francis, and a small bag of fruits seemed to be the ticket to continue our journey without any hitches.
Lunchtime found us by one of the smallest churches in Kenya, nestled next to the Rift Valley. It was an intriguing place with a deep history – the church and road were built by Italian POWs after World War II.
We reached the bustling Masai Market in Nairobi around 4 pm. The market was a paradise for hagglers and a test for negotiation skills, with multi-currency conversions happening simultaneously.
Our group got a bit smaller as we bid goodbye to Barath who had to return to his day job as a corporate superhero. Dinner was at a local restaurant, Urban Point, where the chef, a native of Uttarakhand, served us authentic Indian fare.
Day 6 Summary: This day was a tapestry of various experiences - from a predawn game drive in Masai Mara, a roadside picnic by a historic church, to haggling in the bustling Masai Market of Nairobi. And of course, the day ended with a delicious dinner at Urban Point, serving us a little piece of home in Kenya. The rollercoaster ride from the wilderness to the hustle-bustle of the city was indeed a day to remember.
Day 7 - Nairobi to Amboseli: From Bustling City to Tribal Life
We kicked off day seven with an early breakfast and an 8 am departure from Nairobi, our home base. We bid adieu to the city as our return journey was scheduled from Mombasa.
We reached Amboseli Sopa Lodge by lunchtime. The property, sprawling across a large expanse of land, was an idyllic retreat. However, the crown jewel of the lodge - the view of Mount Kilimanjaro - chose to be a tease and hid behind the clouds.
We spent the afternoon indulging in the rustic charm of the lodge, which operated electricity on a regulated schedule. Our evening was marked by a visit to a nearby Masai village. The entry fee, as explained by the village chief, was $20 per person.
As soon as we entered the village, we were thrown into the midst of a lively Masai dance. Some of us even braved a jump to the tunes of Masai music. We were shown around a traditional home and introduced to local medicines, which, according to them, could cure anything short of major surgery. The medicine man's son took a sudden interest in medicine upon discovering that we had a doctor in our group!
An interesting demonstration of making fire from sticks was impressive, albeit requiring four villagers to get the fire going.
We also visited the mini market run by the village women, where bargaining was apparently a men-only affair. The whole experience, although engaging, felt a bit staged, leaving us with a sense of a well-rehearsed performance.
We returned to the lodge with hopes of catching a glimpse of Kilimanjaro, but the elusive peak chose to remain hidden behind the clouds.
Day 7 Summary: The journey from Nairobi to Amboseli brought us face-to-face with a different side of Africa - the tribal life of the Masai people. The day was an interesting blend of long drives, curious marketplaces, cultural interactions, and hopes of catching a glimpse of Kilimanjaro. While our rendezvous with the mountain peak was unfulfilled, the day left us with an appreciation for the simplicity of tribal life and an unforgettable fire-making demonstration.
Day 8 - Amboseli National Park: Embracing the Wild Side
We kick-started the day bright and early at 0830, having succumbed to the charming persuasions of Masai mask sellers before we could even enter the Amboseli National Park. The park unfolded before us like a different universe – the landscape nothing like we'd seen before, making our trip even more exciting, if that was possible.
Clocking in at around 390 Sq Km, Amboseli is the little sibling of Masai Mara, but it was teeming with diverse wildlife. It’s smaller, yes, but packed a punch. No sooner had we started our drive than we were welcomed by elephant herds and a lone elephant with tusks that would give any dentist a run for their money. They crossed roads peacefully, nonchalant of the human spectators gawking from their jeeps.
Flamingoes dancing was a sight to behold !
In the midst of this elephantine welcome party, herds of zebra and wildebeest joined the soiree, turning the park into a monochromatic display of stripes and horns. The concentration of animals here is not just impressive, it's like a live-action Discovery Channel episode, only better.
We found an unusually peaceful cohabitation at Amboseli Lake, a strange combo of Flamingos and Wildebeest playing roommates, while the hippos decided to convert the lake into their personal spa, unabashedly bathing and lazing around.
Following the wildlife symphony, we were led to a designated area in the heart of the park for a little culinary delight. The cook’s Indian dishes were nothing short of a miracle in the African wilderness, and later we discovered he'd trained in Mumbai for a year. Clearly, he was the secret ingredient to our delicious lunch.
The day wound down as we came across four lions that mirrored our post-lunch stupor, happily fed and luxuriously relaxing.
As if bidding us farewell, hordes of giraffes and zebras were sighted while returning to the resort, making for a picture-perfect end to our adventure. And yes, Kilimanjaro continued its bashful hide and seek with us.
Day 8 Summary: A full day game drive in Amboseli presented an enthralling tableau of wildlife, with persuasive Masai mask sellers, peaceful elephant crossings, Flamingos rooming with Wildebeest, and a culinary delight crafted by a Mumbai-trained chef. Kilimanjaro continued to elude us, as zebras and giraffes waved us goodbye on our journey back to the resort.
Day 9 - Embracing the Journey: Emali to Mombasa
The ninth day of our journey started with a cloud-covered Kilimanjaro teasing us during breakfast. However, Mother Nature decided to lift the suspense around 7 am, revealing the stunning majesty of Kilimanjaro's two peaks, including the main one named Kibo. It was an apt, beautiful finale to our safari adventure. The photos doesnt do justice to the majesty of Kili.
After a short 1.5-hour drive, we arrived at Emali station. The place was a blend of modernity and meticulousness, with intense security checks that even included passport verification. It was teeming with life as a large group of school kids from Precious Blood secondary school, Kilungu, were there, eagerly awaiting their journey home to Mombasa for a much-needed 10-day break.
Although we passed through the vast Tsavo national park, we could see only the occassional Zebra herd and elephants. By now, our standard of expectations were at a different level !
The train ride ended at the bustling Mombasa station, right on schedule at 2 pm. From there, an exciting ferry ride between Mombasa and Likoni added a touch of aquatic adventure to our itinerary. Likoni to Diani, a 1.5-hour journey, felt like a scene lifted straight from Goa or Kerala, complete with mango and tender coconut vendors dotting the roadside.
Finally, we arrived at our destination, Baobab resorts, an impressive amalgamation of three resorts within one. Our eyes were treated to white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters, unlike any beaches we had seen before. Sea-facing rooms added a touch of luxury to our stay.
We ventured out to one of the numerous restaurants inside the resort, reveling in the exotic flavors. As the sun set, painting the sky with hues of pink and orange, we strolled along the firm white sands, soaking in the breathtaking views and the tranquil end to a day filled with travel.
Day 9 Summary: The day brought with it the stunning reveal of Kilimanjaro, a blend of modernity and authenticity at Emali station, a Swiss train ride to Mombasa, a ferry ride and another short scenic drive to the resort. The day wrapped up at the beautiful Baobab resorts with white sandy beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a gorgeous sunset marking an end to a truly memorable day.
Day 10 - Sublime Serenity at Diani Beach
The day began with an early sunrise and an exhilarating basketball game with Rohan in the court within the resort. By 11:30 am, we were at the beach waiting for a boat to take us to Robinson Island for snorkeling. The place was teeming with local vendors offering various enticing activities. Chance encounter with another Masai who was a pleasant salesman.
As we set sail, the boat crew turned into our marine biology teachers, introducing us to sea urchins and different crustaceans. We even held a sea urchin in our hands, which was later used as fish food, and touched live starfish that had a surprisingly plastic-like texture.
Then came the exciting part—snorkeling. Adorned with flippers, goggles, and life jackets, we plunged into the clear, turquoise waters. Despite the strong current, we reveled in the saltiness of the sea and the underwater spectacle of vibrant fish swarming around us. Thanks to my GoPro, I managed to capture this mesmerizing sight.
The white sand around the island/sand bank was simply amazing. It was nice to see the fishermen with sail boats giving tourists a ride.
Video of the snorkel >> here
After swimming to the sandbank, we spent an hour observing the receding island as the tide rose. Then it was back to the boat and the resort, just in time for lunch. A siesta followed, and then we decided to further explore the sprawling property.
The day ended on a tranquil note, with us lounging on a sea view chair, gazing at the starlit sky, and letting the cool breeze soothe our senses. It was indeed a fitting end to our magical Kenyan escapade.
Day 10 Summary: A day packed with early morning basketball, a fascinating boat ride with close encounters of crustaceans, an enthralling snorkeling experience, exploration of the resort, and a tranquil starlit evening marked our last day in Kenya, creating memories to be cherished forever.
In Summary, from our first encounter with the majestic wildlife at Ol Pajeta, through the wildlife-rich expanses of Lake Nakuru, Lake Naivasha, Masai Mara and Amboseli, to the pristine beaches of Diani, this 10-day trip to Kenya has been a surprising blend of experiences. We've savored authentic Indian cuisine, enjoyed the diverse animal sightings, partook in local culture with Masai jumping and hard bargaining and reveled in nature's bounty. The land of wild beauty, Kenya, has given us memories that we'll treasure, reminding us of the simplicity and vibrancy of life beyond our urban jungles. Kenya, its been an immersion worth the wait !
Full album of photos > here
Acknowledgements:
To the wonderful company of friends who made joint memories last longer
To the enthusiastic photographers among us whose photos are enclosed
To ChatGPT which has made writing a breeze
To the planning of Her highness & local organizer Naomi
Would recommend our tour organizer who catered to our Chief Planner's exacting needs and delivered a great experience - Heritage Of African Jungles Tours & Travel Ltd - https://goo.gl/maps/v5miAYuPfJTtxrnz5. Contact Naomi @ +254722423770
Animals & Birds we tracked during the various Game drives: (Courtesy - Sundari)
Black Rhino 🦏
African elephant 🐘
Zebra 🦓
Thomson’s Gazelles
Impala
Water bucks
Baboons - olive and yellow
African Buffaloes 🐃
Warthogs
East African Antelope
Giraffe - Reticulated, Masai and Rothschild
Leopard
Colobus monkeys - Black and white
Blue balled vervet monkeys
Normal eland
Hippos
Wildebeest
Topi
Lion
Cheetah
Hyena
Hartebeest
Jackal
Banded Mongoose
Bush buck
Rock Hyrax
Steinbock
Dik-dik
Birds
Crown headed crane
Ostrich
Secretary Bird
Fish eagle 🦅
Egret - Cattle and Little
Guinea Fowl
Ibis
Bustard
Lesser Flamingo 🦩
Pelican - pink backed and great white
Grey headed heron
Blacksmith bird
Yellow beak stork
Red knob coots
Sacred ibis
Cormorant long tailed and great
Ground Hornbills
Superb starling
Blacksmith
White faced Whistling Ducks
Spoonbill
African jacana
BlackSleek
NightJar Heron
Goliath Heron
Mara Bush Stork - fly to Australia
Vultures
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