Day 0: Testing Knees and Sweet Tooth in Shimla - A Himalayan Adventure Begins
If there's one thing I've learned over the years, it's that there's no better time to test your knees, back, and mental fortitude than during a moderate/difficult trek in the Himalayas.
So, here I am, in the heart of the bustling Mall road in Shimla, armed with too many "what-if" scenarios while packing, a couple of orthopedic knee braces, enough medicines (& instructions) to start a pharmacy and a little bit of trepidation on what's going to happen over the next few days. My hotel, a charming testament to architectural monstrosity, was conveniently located just a stone's throw from the tourist lift.
Now, the tourist lift in Shimla is not your everyday lift. It's a vertical commute, a rite of passage, and a thrilling escape from the chaos of the lower bus stands and entry into the famously named Mall road. As for the view? Well, let's just say that if you're lucky enough to not be squished in the middle of a group of over-enthusiastic tourists trying to buy everything from almonds to electrical fittings, it's charming. The hotel had a nice balcony and I was able to rest my lungs from the steep climb of 50 steps to the hotel with a great sunset view.
Ventured out in the evening to my real highlight of my day - the sweet shops. I did my part in supporting the local economy by indulging in a dinner of 1000 calories of chaats, Rasmalai and to top it all, Rum coffee with Walnut cake. Consoled myself that this is part of calorie loading, just like how marathon runners do.
The next morning, feeling a bit guilty about the extra nutrition I consumed, wanted to hike to the Jakhu temple, the highest point of Shimla. The steep incline could have very well been Annapurna for my city-acclimatized legs. The temple, a peaceful oasis of spirituality amidst the hustle and bustle of Shimla, was well worth the effort. There were very few tourists and the serene gaze of the colossal Hanuman statue, probably wondering how this fellow will cope in the next few days.
Day 0 verdict: Knees - shaky but surviving, back - surprisingly resilient, sweet tooth - satisfied and craving for more. Himalayas - I think we're going to get along just fine. Day 1: Shimla to Jiskun - The Beginning of the Great Indian Road-Trip Rodeo
Day one of the journey was all about getting acquainted with my fellow adventurers at the New ISBT bus stand in Shimla. As I scanned the crowd, I found myself wondering who among these brave souls would be my companion at the back of the pack, because let's face it, I'm more 'tortoise' than 'hare' on this race.
I was greeted by a sprightly bunch of folks who looked as if they did the Everest Base Camp trek as a casual weekend jaunt. Equipped to the hilt (well, most) each of them looked like they would run up and down Rupin pass in a day !
Our chariot of choice for the journey was a middle aged Force 10 jeep/tempo, exactly packing all 11 of us. The driver, a social media maven in his own right, was busy Instagramming while navigating the Himalayan roads with an unnerving level of confidence.
The musical backdrop to our journey was an eclectic mix that eventually settled on Punjabi music, a genre that can make even the most arduous journey seem like a vibrant dance party.
A hearty breakfast of Parathas was devoured, we continued our journey with the Pabbar river for company. We stopped for lunch amidst beautiful apple orchards, and even the simple Dal rice tasted like a Michelin-starred meal, thanks to the lush surroundings and the gently falling rain. We had a formal 'banana-gifting' ceremony thus marking the forever bond between us with a dozen bananas !
Our journey took us over the Chanschal Pass at 14,500 feet, which had been closed until two days ago due to heavy snow. The snow was being cleared as we passed, and the pristine, snow-laden valley offered views straight out of a postcard.
After a steep descent, we finally reached Jiskun village after 11 hours on the tempo, our bums practically singing hymns of relief. A short hike later, we found ourselves at our homestay, welcomed by the comforting aroma of dinner cooking. It was interesting to see the windows with no panes as a natural AC. One could see the twinkling lights of Jhaka village in the distance.
A simple meal of rotis, mutter paneer, rice, dal, and hot custard was served, which we wolfed down like we hadn't seen food in weeks. Post-dinner, Neeraj, our trek leader, gave us a briefing that left me excited and seriously considering the limits of my travel insurance. Woke up multiple times to hear a poor dog howling in the terrace as I am sure it was crying to be let inside.
Day 1 verdict: Full of enthusiasm despite having had enough of tempo journeys and raring to go. Here's to hoping I survive the rest of the journey without becoming the next viral sensation on our driver's Instagram.
Day 2: Jiskun to Jhaka Village - Hiking, Feasting, and Mafioso Shenanigans
Our second day dawned with a sight that would have made even the grumpiest morning person jump out of bed - a picturesque panorama of snow-clad mountains glittering under the morning sun. The day promised to be clear and beautiful, much like my resolve to complete this trek without needing a mountain rescue.
We were joined by Pritam, a local trek guide whose home town was Jhaka. The trek from Jiskun to Jhaka was as much a treat for the eyes as it was a workout for the legs. We navigated a trail that flirted with the banks of the Rupin river, meandering up and down through the valley. The sight of whole villages clinging precariously to the slopes was both awe-inspiring and slightly vertigo-inducing.
The journey was punctuated with enthusiastic bouts of photography. So many professional poses were struck (some of them a cross between fashion and body building) that I wouldn't have been surprised to see a pop-up fashion runway around the next bend.
Upon reaching Jhaka, which was so dramatically built on stilts that it made the Leaning Tower of Pisa seem straight, we indulged in an impromptu circle of massages, making sure those tired muscles were ready for the next day's adventure. Seeing a bunch of school children who make this trek daily from Jhaka to Jiskun and back, did puncture my sense of accomplishment !
Lunch was a simple yet heavenly affair of rice, kadi, salad, and papad. An hour and a half of blissful slumber followed, only to be rudely interrupted by rain that put a dampener on our plans for an evening hike to a nearby view point/temple.
Instead, we dove headfirst into an intense game of 'Mafia'. I saw more acting talent in that circle than in a season of a prime-time drama series. Who knew trekkers could be such fantastic thespians?
Dinner was another gastronomic delight with rotis, bindi curry, dal, rice, and the pièce de résistance - Shahi Tukda. We retired to our cozy rooms, four to a room, swathed in thick blankets and more stories of our newfound Mafia prowess.
The day ended with the gentle patter of snow against the window. As we huddled in our blankets, we couldn't help but wonder what surprises awaited us the next morning.
Day 2 verdict: Hiking, feasting, and games of 'Mafia' - a day so packed with adventure, I almost forgot that we walked 4 hours uphill. The snowfall at night just added to the magic, making it a day worth freezing my toes off for.
Day 3: Jhaka to Buras kandi - A Slippery, Snowy, Sock-Eating Adventure
Day three greeted us with a sprinkling of snow, transforming the Himalayan landscape into a Christmas card vista. Our trek leader, showing a keen understanding of both the weather and our desire to delay the inevitable leg workout, decided we would leave a little later than planned.
Breakfast was a hearty serving of parathas and tea, which seemed to be the favorite of not just us trekkers, but also Tyson, the local dog, who decided to diversify his diet by munching on a sock. I guess even dogs tire of carbs sometimes.
Our trek to Buraskandi kicked off at 10 am, and within minutes, we were knee-deep in a winter wonderland, complete with snow-laden paths that had a knack for transforming into slush under our feet.
The trek was challenging but rewarded us with stunning views of snow-capped mountains, cliffs, and pine forests. We passed through waterfalls cascading through snow.
The only dampener on our spirits was the sight of a previous trekking group returning prematurely due to bad weather, casting a gloomy cloud over our sunny dispositions. Just as we were digesting this piece of news, the skies decided to mirror our moods and started snowing. Out came our ponchos, as we trudged through the snow to our lunch spot, only to be greeted by a sudden clearing of the sky and brilliant sunshine.
The post-lunch hike was a slippery affair, through steep cliffs where getting good foot holds was a circus act. Soon enough, we reached the campsite to be greeted by bright orange tents nestled under the snow clad mountains and close to a glacier in its toddler stage.
The rest of the day was spent indulging in hot tea, pakodas, and games of bluff. The only hiccup came when our trek leader announced that the Rupin Pass was off-limits due to high snow levels and potential avalanche risks. After a group discussion, we decided to proceed to the lower waterfall camp and reassess the situation.
Dinner was a comforting affair of rotis, baingan curry, dal, rice, and suji halwa. My attempt at sleep was slightly hampered by a particularly stubborn stone that found a cozy spot in the middle of my back and a gravity-assisted slide towards my tent-mate, but the clear night sky full of stars was a balm to my tired body.
Day 3 verdict: Between the sock-munching dog, the snow-turned-slush trails, and my gravity-defying sleep attempts, today was a day of unexpected surprises. But as they say, the journey is the destination, and I wouldn't have it any other way.
Day 4: Buraskandi to Lower Waterfall Camp/Dhanderas Thatch - An Epic of Slips, Slush, and Soan Papdi
Our fourth day dawned with all the glory of a pristine Himalayan morning. The sun shone brightly on a canvas of untouched snow, making for a spectacular contrast against our tiny orange tents.
Our camp was right next to an avalanche spot, which is being formed into a glacier.
The air was frigid, cutting through our layers with an ease that was almost disrespectful. A hearty breakfast of chillas, masala upma, and coffee, along with our customary treats of Frooti and Dairy Milk, served as a warm up for the day ahead.
Equipped with gaiters, we embarked on an ascent that was as breathtakingly beautiful as it was treacherous. A snow-laden forest with slippery footings and a precipitous fall to one side made for an adrenaline-filled start to our day.
The reward for our slow, steady climb was Buras kandi, a vast plain nestled amidst mountains, with the Rupin river flowing through it like a silver ribbon. Today, the usually floral meadow wore a snowy blanket, making for a stunning photo op. A million photos and a well deserved rest followed.
Our ascent continued for another three hours, all on snow. My pride took a few hits thanks to multiple slips, but as they say, you only learn to walk on snow after you’ve acquainted your backside with it.
The landscapes got increasingly ethereal as we climbed higher, with snow depths of 3-4 feet and valleys that seemed straight out of a fantasy novel. Our destination, the lower waterfall camp, materialized in the distance like a mirage, only to become a reality after a few more stream crossings.
The view from the ridge looking towards the valley was indeed majestic.
Post the usual group cooldown and a divine lunch of rajma and rice, we retreated to our tents, which, thanks to the sun, were warm and cozy.
As evening fell, the winds decided to crash our party, making standing outside a herculean task. Inside the dinner tent, the atmosphere was warm and festive, with stories, laughter, and a dinner that featured the unusual yet delightful combination of chocolate soan papdi.
Bedtime came early, around 8:30 pm, which involved layering up like an onion before diving into our sleeping bags. Our tent, being the first in line, was on the frontline of the valley winds, resulting in a symphony of rattles and flaps that made sleep a fitful affair.
Some brave (or perhaps, insomniac) souls stayed up to stargaze, but I was more than content in my cozy cocoon, dreaming of a less slippery tomorrow.
Day 4 verdict: A day of snowy ascents, spectacular sights, and gusty winds. The falls and slips were worth every moment of this breathtakingly beautiful adventure. After all, what’s a trek without a few bruises to show off, right?
Day 5: Dhanteras Thatch to Jiskun - The Downhill Dance
Morning at the camp was the perfect blend of crisp and biting, kind of like a frozen apple. Some ambitious (read: crazy) souls had braved the icy winds to catch the sunrise over the snowy peaks. Meanwhile, the rest of us mortals were wrestling with the unique challenge of balancing on ice in a toilet tent that threatened to turn into a kite any second.
The morning meal was a hearty mix of Daliya, masala channa and tea, along with packed parathas for lunch. Our toes and fingers were numb from the cold, so we quickly slipped on our mini spikes and started our descent. Before that, the all important milestone of taking a group picture was duly completed.
The journey downhill was like a speed run, covering the same distance in 60% of the time. It was as if we had drunk some magical potion that had given us super speed. As we descended, the snow began to melt, transforming the landscape into a completely new vista. It was like walking through an interactive art exhibition by Mother Nature herself.
A taste of Rhododendron juice !
By the time we reached the Buraskandi camp, some of us picked up items that we'd left behind. After a lunch break, we continued our knee-crunching descent to Jhaka. Despite the strain, we kept a good pace and reached Jiskun by 6 pm.
In what was described as a Bikat Adventures tradition, we were served tea and pasta - a surprisingly comforting combination after a long day's trek. Dinner was another grand affair featuring rotis, soya chunks, dal, rice, and a semiya payasam for dessert.
After the final briefing, we had the luxury of a hot bath at the homestay. Nothing says "congratulations on surviving the trek" quite like warm water cascading down your sore muscles.
Summary: Over the last five days, we've ascended, descended, slipped, slid, huffed, puffed, laughed, and shivered our way through the Himalayas. Each day brought a new challenge, a new view, and a new memory. We've tasted the cold air of the morning, felt the crunch of snow beneath our feet, shared stories in cozy tents, and discovered the unique thrill of balancing on ice in a loo tent. Despite the slips, the aches, and the biting cold, I wouldn't trade these past five days for anything.
Day 6: Jiskun to Shimla - When Vehicles Falter and Spirits Soar
As the dawn broke on our last day, we awoke in our homestay as hardened mountaineers, impervious to the cold - the open windows didn't bother us anymore. We had survived freezing temperatures, icy trails, and braved a toilet tent on the brink of taking flight, so what was a chilly breeze through an open window?
We kick-started the day with a breakfast of coffee (yes, you heard that right, no tea!), poori, and aloo subzi. Our trusty Force 10 chariot had been thwarted by a pesky landslide, and was parked a kilometer away. So, in addition to breakfast, we had an early morning exercise of trekking to our ride.
Just as we were settling into the ride, admiring the crisp morning that was turning warm, our journey transformed into an episode of "Survivor: Brake Failure Edition". The brakes of our chariot turned soft (a polite way of saying they failed!) right at the start of the Chanschal pass. What followed was a thrilling saga of crisis management, temporary fixes, open people carriers, and an unexpected four-hour lunch break.
Finally, after a pit stop at a local workshop, where we saw the entire village turn into brake repair consultants, we were back on the road. Yet, Murphy's Law struck again and we had to make another stop at Rohru for 'permanent repairs'.
But, as they say, when life gives you lemons, you make lemonade. In our case, when life gives you a broken-down vehicle, you throw an impromptu beer party.
Day 6 Summary: What started as a normal travel day turned into an epic saga of brake failure, mechanical wizardry, and an impromptu beer party. Despite the setbacks, we were reminded that the journey is often as memorable as the destination, and sometimes, a breakdown can lead to the best memories.
Complete photos >> Click Here
Above blog written with help of generative AI
Photos other than mine, courtesy Sumeet, Shambhavi, Deepak, Vipin, Neeraj and Harsha
My co-trekkers:
Neeraj (Trek Lead): The jovial leader one who could probably ascend Everest with one leg
Jeet and Pritam (Local Guides): The dynamic duo who knew the mountain better than their own pockets.
Shambhavi Pandey: The EY consultant who swaps spreadsheets for sleeping bags like a pro.
Dinesh: A Bikat loyalist, so seasoned he could probably trek blindfolded.
Sumeet Dash: The student who wants to trek every part of Himalayas before his Masters
Harsha: The Nike employee who doesn't just do it - he does it on top of a mountain.
Neil: Runs a non-profit and climbs mountains - Superman in disguise.
Vipin: Powers through treks like a Tata power plant. A master of compact packing.
Neeraj: A biker, a photographer, and a mountaineer - a triple threat if there ever was one.
Neha: The data analyst who can swap pharma reports for prime time TV
Shitanshu and Divyanshi: The CAG auditors who traded financial audits for altitude audits
Prithika: The free spirit who swapped corporate life for high-altitude adventure
Wow! What an experience!👏
Well articulated & inspiring!
Lovely stuff mukund. Here’s to many more such adventures.